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John Bartlett Hub



04/19/2007


News: Oscar Wilde, El Niño, Pepto-Bismol, Vladimir Putin, Iraq

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U.S. military probing claims by Iraqi refugee that servicemembers were involved in the executions of gays in Iraq.

Ryanlandry

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Provincetown player Ryan Landry stars as Oscar Wilde in production of Moises Kaufman's Gross Indecency.

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Save the Earth, piss in the shower.

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New El Niño may be second-strongest.

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The Majority: Condé Nast's 'A-gay' tower of power?

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Bolivia bans all circus animals: "Bolivia has enacted what animal rights activists are calling the world's first ban on all animals in circuses. A handful of other countries have banned the use of wild animals in circuses, but the Bolivian ban includes domestic animals as well."

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Phyllis Schlafly unleashes on the National Education Association for supporting gays at its annual convention in San Diego.

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Allen Thornell, LGBT leader in Georgia, dies after suffering stroke.

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Leonardo Dicaprio hits the beach in Ibiza.

Pepto

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Pepto-Bismol ice cream: hangover cure?

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Murses and the dudes who dig them. (via the awl)

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Stonewall Shooting Sports: Gay Utah group to join gun rights march in Salt Lake City.

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Killer of gay seaman August Provost, who committed suicide while in custody, had tried to kill himself twice before.

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Movieline interviews photographer Bruce Weber.

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Maybe the only reason to see the new G.I. Joe flick?

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The NYT visits the John Bartlett boutique: "It’s not as if this store is exclusively gay; it’s just secure in its sexuality. Contrary to current film and television, there is a large segment of confident gay men out there who aren’t that obsessed with fashion. They work hard, and just need some nice clothes for jobs and second dates."

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What Tom Cruise, John Travolta, and Will Smith will be wearing this fall.

Putin

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Russian PM Vladimir Putin shows off his macho self again. FLASHBACK: A river runs through Russia: Fishing with Pin-up Putin.

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75% of Poles against same-sex marriage.

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Glenn Beck: Don't get violent, even though I've been riling you up for years.

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Error rate increases as signatures are counted in Washington state anti-gay ballot measure.

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Massachusetts teen held on $1000 bond after anti-gay assault: "According to the victim, he and his female friend were walking on Bay Street when they were approached by a group of four boys. They identified two of the four as Ambers and Gregg, who appeared to be intoxicated when they directed their attention toward the victim in an aggressive manner. Though she tried to keep Ambers at a distance, the victim’s friend told officers her attempts were futile. Reports say Ambers and Gregg shouted homosexual slurs as they punched and kicked the teenager until he fell to the ground."

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Annie Lennox, backwards and forwards.


NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FALL 2009: PIECE BY PIECE

  Tachman

Guestblogger ANDREW HARMON

Andrew Harmon has been roving among the shows at New York's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for Towleroad. Harmon is the former West Coast Editor for DNR/Menswear and a contributor to Los Angeles, The Advocate and Women’s Wear Daily. Earlier this week, Harmon filed a preliminary report, which you can read here.

John-Bartlett In between shows this week, my friend Kurt and I stepped into John Bartlett’s West Village boutique under the pretext of Just looking, thanks. It was a few days after Bartlett had been hogtied in reviews by a few men’s editors, who among other things complained that the models in his dressed-up-for-the-Depression-bread-line show looked more like David Barton Gym slaves than malnourished workers subsisting on gruel and Chesterfields. (What did they expect, Bartlett goes twink? Right.)

The store was empty, less the sales clerk and Bartlett’s three-legged dog, Tiny Tim, who encouraged me to try on a down vest with wool check plaid shoulders that gave the illusion, however slight, of Bartlett beefiness. Sold. No thanks to Kurt.

But spending money one doesn’t have is clearly the ultimate vulgarity in this epoch, and if Carrie Bradshaw were still around, I imagine she’d be about as popular as Elena Ceausescu during the Romanian Revolution. So like many, my further shopping habits this year will be drib-drab at best. Thankfully, we won’t all have to go too Banana Republicky, because there are a few tight pieces to be had this week in New York, and I imagine more than one will be on the clearance rack come fall.

Stand-outs in my book:

Gilded-Age  Michael-Bastian

Gilded Age and Michael Bastian both evoked that one red-flag guy in every fraternity who can actually dress: collegiate and masculine, but you know he’s got copies of VMan  and i-D stuffed somewhere in his study carrel. I’d lose the blazer on this Gilded look and show off the fair isle cardigan sweater underneath. Perfect for parents’ weekend. Ditto the varsity jacket at Bastian.

Thom-Browne  Loden

If adequately trust-funded, he may be adding this exquisite piece from Thom Browne, who presented at his showroom Thursday in lieu of the usual runway theatrics that were shipped to Pitti Uomo last month. Even if a true Browne devotee is the sort of bristly Sartorialist addict who would never accompany you on a 1 a.m. trip to McDonald’s, the designer is living proof of Richard Martin’s axiom that fashion, however pervasive, remains an underappreciated visual art form.  

But back to knits: Despite Loden Dager’s soporific show at the General Society’s Library, the collective offered up a series of accessible, rugged cardigans, some with leather buttons that bridged the divide between bohemian and longshoreman. Earthy lavender is definitely a pop-color this season, finding its way into the label’s roomy trousers pegged at the ankle (must everyone roll their cuffs these days?).

Band-of-outsiders  Marc-by-marc

Earlier this week I left the Band of Outsiders show aglow, then wondered if it was just the sublime presentation that tricked me into submission. After a second look, I stand firm: This double-breasted blazer is about as boy chic as it gets.

I’ve only seen Marc Jacobs in person once in my life. Last March he was slouched in a high-backed leather booth at The Abbey in West Hollywood, texting and ignoring the insouciant 22-year-olds flanking him. Since then his clothes have taken on a bit of a bratty sheen for me. So it was refreshing to see pieces like this jacket at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Punched up with a colorful woven shirt, it channeled my favorite deadpan soundbyte from Kelly Cutrone: “Fashion is fun, just remember. Fashion. Is. Fun.” 

Michael-Kors  Spurr

If you’re not blinded by the orange in Michael Kors’ collection that approximates the designer’s permatan, you’ll see a fantastic wool coat in an asphalt palette that begs closer inspection. Spurr, which I mentioned in a post earlier this week, has this sublime down jacket in amber. It doesn’t appear to be very technical in its fabrication, though I could still see a fashionisto sporting it for spring skiing in Aspen.  

What to avoid? Hate to say it, but Phillip Lim 3.1’s small collection was disappointing. My neighbor Carol can work the hell out of his fantastic cropped jackets, but the men’s line is still largely inscrutable. There were a lot of interesting plaid suits this week, but Lim’s was not among them.

Robert-Geller  Robert-Geller-2

The love affair with Robert Geller hasn’t hit me yet. Clearly he has talent. No one wins GQ’s Best New Menswear Designers in America award by accident. But the show’s aesthetic  — Oscar and Bosie meet the goth kids on South Park — didn’t leave me terribly inspired. Except for this leather jacket, one of the best I’ve seen. I’m all for avant-garde, but please explain to me this subsequent model, who wore a fringed, burgundy afghan belted at the waist, like a five-year-old’s first attempt at drag in the family living room.

Earlier this week...
New York Men's Fashion Week Report: Fall 2009 Collections [tr]

(Top B&W image: Backstage at Robert Geller. Kevin Tachman for Towleroad)

(look images marcio madeira, men.style.com)


Fashion Designer John Bartlett Opens NYC Boutique

Bartlett_2Fashion designer John Bartlett has opened his first boutique. The Shophound takes us to the store, which opened over the weekend in Manhattan's West Village:

"Relishing his new role as retailer, the designer plans to make the most of his interaction with customers in developing his collection. 'I want guys to be able to wear my clothes,' he tells us as we discuss how so many designer lines are difficult for American men to fit into. 'It's OK for young guys,' he says of the current vogue for superslim cuts, but while Bartlett's own line is hardly baggy, he now has a vested interest in fitting the customers who come through his door as well as his own more athletic than attenuated physique."

Bartlett's wares include jeans with a leather patch that will be branded after purchase, tartan trousers, black motorcycle and denim jackets, gray flannel pants, patchwork blazers, and a few non-clothing items such as "witty ceramic home accessories" and scented candles.

As for Bartlett himself, he tells the Shophound, "I plan to be here a lot."

John Bartlett Sets Up Shop: A Shophound Interview [the shophound]
John Bartlett [official site]


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