Destination Florent


Florent opened Florent in 1985, taking over a diner space in the city’s then meatpacking district. In 2000 he was instrumental in starting the campaign to have the pleasantly grimy neighborhood with its trucks and warehouses and stench of meat juices recognized as a historic district.


Many changes had come to the area in the five years since he moved in, but it took the construction of the enormous Hotel Gansevoort nearby in 2003 to get other residents motivated to take action, and soon they received landmark recognition for the Gansevoort Historic District. Florent, along with preservationist Jo Hamilton, lead the charge.

Florent’s love of urban planning and daring architecture were sometimes in cahoots and sometimes at odds with changes in the neighborhood. He’s a huge fan of skyscrapers, as the New York Times noted this week in a colorful piece, but to save the neighborhood he actually thwarted the development of a skyscraper (by another Frenchman, Jean Nouvel) that was to be built just blocks from the restaurant, somewhat to his architecture-loving chagrin.

Yet Florent, in its twenty years, has remained a steadfast beacon of pink neon on rutted, cobblestoned Gansevoort Street, thick with the smell of raw meat from the packing plants that still operate there.

Over the years Florent has inspired a legion of activists to join him in support of causes from the Pro-Choice movement to the Right to Die movement, took part in his own way after 9/11 with an antique fireboat he had helped save from destruction, and singlehandedly made Bastille Day a holiday that downtown New Yorkers have come to celebrate as their own, in only the way that Florent can do. That is, with lots of feathers.

Earlier this week I spent the afternoon with Florent and hope to share with you some of the reasons why he is being honored with a benefit this weekend, sure to be as colorful as any in New York’s recent memory. The restaurant is at the heart of his activism, and serves as a sort of culinary control room for his activities:


Florent appears much like any other diner, until you begin noticing small details like the fact that the menu items aren’t low-end diner items but bistro choices like goat cheese salad and steak frites.

The current food “specials” board (click below to expand) isn’t what you’d expect either. It contains a weather report, a list on what not to name the baby this year, and an ad for this weekend’s Bi-Decade{nt} Ball at the Roxy. It’s constantly changing with the help of a writer, Tom Eubanks, who has worked with Florent for years. He also edits an online “literary” zine for the restaurant called Papotage.


Sit in one of these stools and your tush will share have shared a space with Michael Stipe, Liza Minnelli, Martha Stewart, Tom Cruise, David Hockney, Philip Johnson, Graham Norton, Richard Gere, Tobey Maguire, Sylvester, Keith Haring, Cher, Philippe Starck, or any one of hundreds of celebrities that have frequented Florent and still do.


Florent at work in the front window:


The only physical change Florent made to the place when he moved in was the French-inspired addition of a banquette and a wraparound mirror “so people facing the wall could see the rest of the room and not feel like they [are] in purgatory.”


He also added rows of colorful maps, an obsession he brought with him from his years as an urban planner. Right now the maps are draped in Mardi Gras beads as the theme for this year’s upcoming Halloween soiree is “Mardi Gras: Hell or High Water.” At Florent, the events of the day however political or frivolous are put front and center. Resilience is celebrated, as is humanity.


When Bastille Day rolls around, the drag comes out of the closet and you better believe the place is packed.



That’s Florent on the left. You’ll find him in drag for the “high holidays”: Bastille Day, Halloween, and New Year’s Eve.

Part of the celebration of the restaurant’s 20th anniversary this week is the opening of an exhibit at the White Columns Gallery (Horatio St. at West 4th) showing off a retrospective of the restaurant’s colorful past, including a look at Florent fashion over the years:

Florent11_2 Florent12_1

Florent13_1 Florent17_1

Nothing like a restaurant with its own costume archive! Yet behind the fun there has always been an eye on the more serious issues of the day. Florent’s advertisements consistently reveal an inspired activist with an eye for design. For many of his early ads he collaborated with a well-known graphic designer named Tibor Kalman.

He met Tibor through a man he dated in ’85 named Larry Rosenberg, who urged Florent to work with him. When Larry became very sick in ’86 and died of AIDS in ’87, it inspired Florent and Tibor to create an advertisement in his honor that Florent sees as a watershed moment.

The ad appeared as New York’s gay population was experiencing a brutal thinning at the hands of the devastating disease, and features a living will as its centerpiece.

Says Florent: “Larry’s death was very hard. He was in denial, and, as was often in a situation like that, he got abused by the medical establishment. They were doing futile, aggressive treatments days before he died and the nurses were unreceptive to his pain. They were coming late and when he was complaining they were telling him he should be a man. After his death, Tibor and I decided to do this ad for Paper magazine advocating the Right to Die issue, and we asked The Society for the Right to Die if we could use one of their living wills for an ad. They agreed on the condition that they would proof the ad before publication. Tibor was a big bully and published the ad without their agreeing.”

The ad:


“Shortly after the publication I got a call from the organization’s executive director who was not a happy camper. She had several complaints from board members about the ad. I tried to explain to her and said come to my restaurant. Let’s do lunch, and I said, you know, I have AIDS, my boyfriend has AIDS. Everyone around me has AIDS. People are dying left and right. There is a whole constituency that you need to reach out to — the only way you can reaach them is with a sense of humor. She got it 20/20. A couple months later she called and extended an invite to be on the board.”

He spent 10 years on that board and in ’97 with a few other people started Compassion in Dying, which advocates aid in dying. In ’03 he became a National Board Member and in ’04 they merged with End of Life Choices (which used to be the Hemlock Society).

A sense of humor is front and center on many of the restaurant’s other ads, political or not.



Last year, Spencer Tunick, the artist that has grown famous around the world for his massive photographic installations of naked bodies in public places, shot a cover for Poz magazine in which he packed Florent with naked people with HIV. Courageous to be sure, but when you realize that the menu boards, along with their activist messages and weather report contain a running graph of Florent’s T-cell count, this kind of bold statement seems par for the course.



Florent himself appears in the photo. These photos are up at the White Columns exhibit, along with a sampling of other photos from Florent’s past.

The artist Keith Haring:


Lady Miss Kier of Deee-Lite holding a “no-hangers” cookie Florent had baked to give to those who were riding down on buses he had organized to go to Washington DC for a pro-choice rally:


James Earl Jones:


Also on display at the exhibit are Florent’s maps — not the ones he’s collected of various cities over the years, but maps he’s created himself, fantastical cartography that takes familiar urban settings like Paris and extrapolates on the landscape using a keen sense of design and his own knowledge of urban planning. He’s created a whole series of cities that never existed and never will, enchanting to imagine and gorgeous to look at…


That’s perhaps why so many find their way to Florent, pulled in by the strange yet coherent fabric of patrons, design, and great food. This map he created for an ad at first glance looks like a map showing the location of the restaurant. But wait, is it San Francisco or New York?


Strangely enough, it’s both. Florent combined elements of the Embarcadero district of SF with the meatpacking district to create a confusing riddle that is characteristic of the social and geographic gumbo that pervades Florent’s imagination.

Florent moved to the U.S. in 1978, though his parents had brought him on a tour of the country in 1967.

He studied urban planning in London in the early 70’s and then took a year off and embarked on a hitchhiking trip across the U.S. with a friend. He “found a gay paradise” in San Francisco and a job in a restaurant on Polk Street.

When he moved back to France he opened a restaurant in Paris with an American and his brother. “It was a great social success and a financial disaster. A horrible experience,” he says. “That’s where I really learned the tools of the trade. In Paris I learned about humility, one of the most important lessons you can learn. Every decade one should have a good shot of humility.”

Properly humbled, he decided to move back to the U.S. “When I left Paris I was over France. I hadn’t spent much time in New York but I knew it was the place. I had told my friend to do anything to stop me if I mentioned the word ‘restaurant’.”

Well, we know now his friend wasn’t very successful:


Florent has seen much come and go in the Meatpacking District since he opened the restaurant in ’85. The benefit this Saturday night at the Roxy is not only a celebration of his restaurant’s 20th Anniversary, but it’s also a benefit for the most important new public space in Manhattan, the High Line, a serpentine park that’s being developed atop an abandoned elevated train track that runs throughout the district.

It’s just one more sign of change for this area which used to be home to some of the city’s grittiest gay nightlife. For nostalgia’s sake, Florent and I took a walk adjacent to the High Line, and he pointed out what’s become of some of those dirty watering holes. Here’s a sample for those of you old enough to remember:

The most recently vanished bar was Hell, just down the street from Florent, soon to become another restaurant:

Here’s the site of the old Mineshaft:

The Lure:

Afterhour dark room activity used to abound at Jay’s, now the restaurant Vento:

Jackie 60, now a Scoop boutique:

The anvil, now a Liberty Inn:

And where the multi-tiered Mars nightclub used to be, a parking lot:

We end up at the upscale boutique Jeffrey, where we find they’ve installed a mini-Florent in the store’s entryway:



Florent immediately feels right at home. The businesses in the meatpacking district understand and appreciate what he has done for the neighborhood. Buildings that used to house the seedier nightclubs of New York’s gay past are now home to boutiques and upscale restaurants. Florent realizes there’s little he can do, despite his interests in preservation, to abate the changes that real estate prices and economic cycles will have on a place, so he instead chooses to embrace it.

Says Florent: “When I came in ’85 I’m sure there were people complaining that I took this diner and gentrified it. It had a clientele,” he explained to me. “I could have chosen to cry each time [something changes in the neighborhood] but I go on. If you come from a small town in the dreary west of France to New York City you have to enjoy change, especially if we are talking about Manhattan.”

With all luck, the bistro at 69 Gansevoort Street won’t be changing anytime soon.

More information on the Florent Bi-Decade{nt} Ball from 7-11 at the Roxy this Saturday. Guests at the Florent/High Line Ball can purchase $25 wristbands for the special event at the Roxy during the Florent/High Line Ball without waiting in line outside.

And more information on the High Line, which it benefits.

Hopefully, we’ll see you there.

And to see more memorabilia visit the Florent retrospective at the White Columns Gallery through October 23rd.



  1. says

    If I lived nearby, I’d be tempted to try and make a documentary on this place… your article alone has so much information on it. It’s the kind of thing I love to get on film, a seemingly small place or person that makes the real history and feel of a city come alive.

  2. says

    If I lived nearby, I’d be tempted to try and make a documentary on this place… your article alone has so much information on it. It’s the kind of thing I love to get on film, a seemingly small place or person that makes the real history and feel of a city come alive.

  3. Rami says

    I am so excited to be performing at that Benefit now: even more so than before. Great post. See you there.

  4. scott says

    florent is one of the places i truly miss in the city. i lived there from ’91-’02 and a friend of mine had a studio on gansevoort. i never-never had a bad time at florent … a bad date or two, maybe. i wish i could be there saturday to celebrate. florent is wonderful and his restaurant is the best place for a late night bite.

  5. says

    Loved the article so much. I have been a Florent customer since he opened. Lets not forget those plastic carwash strips in the front of the restaurant, the fantastic matchbooks, and that amazing goat cheese salad (the first I ever had)! Not only is the place a fantastic environment, the food never fails. Congratulations Florent! Here’s to 20 more!!!

  6. matt-chicago says

    Thank you andy for such a beautiful profile on such a warm and wonderful man and place…

  7. ICEMAN says

    Andy, your story is really good. Thank you for sharing. It’s very inspirational to see how one person can affect an entire community. It also seems that those bars with the dark back rooms and being replaced, which is a good thing in my opinion. The same thing has happened here in Ft. Lauderdale.

    All of your photos are good (as usual) but when I saw the first picture of the diner with the bike in front of it I wondered if that was your bike Andy. Then I realized that bike didn’t have glittery steamers coming out of the handlebars, or a little ringing bell on them. The bike also didn’t have a basket up front (decorated with big silk flowers of course) or the retro looking tire fenders, so of course it couldn’t possibly your bike.

    Have a nice weekend

  8. says

    my favorite florent moment – being waited on by rupaul (in boy drag) the week after i’d seen him perform at wigstock ’90 the week before.

    good times…

  9. says

    my favorite florent moment – being waited on by rupaul (in boy drag) the week after i’d seen him perform at wigstock ’90 the week before.

    good times…

  10. Rami says

    my favorite florent moment: the first time i ever went there, i had to sit next to Calvin Klein and I was so grossed out by his ridiculously long earlobes.

  11. says

    Oh, Florent. Flo’s is the only reason I’ll brave the meatpacking district these days. It’s such an integral part of my life in New York–the night I lost my virginity I went there. And my ex-boyfriend and I would have brunch almost every Sunday. And my crew of German expats got drunk one night…

  12. says

    “Janis Joplin: Talkin’bout the 60’s” One woman show in character, costume and “voice” would love to be part of the July 14th 2006 “High Holiday” Harry, I’m the redhead from Boston (moving to NYC hopefully Sept 2006 or earlier) who was eating there daily while in NY for the Cornelia St. Cafe show (had to replace my wig and boas remember….) I’ll call end of January to see about this anyway 24/7 888 983-1183 marianne donnelly (incl pic as Janis) Also want to be in Halloween Hell or High Water Parade and activities…..

  13. says

    ‘JANIS JOPLIN’ OCTOBER 31, 2006 AFTER THE PARADE wishes to jump onto your countertop(carefully)to lead a “Mercedes Benz” sing-along with patrons about 11:30 pm or slightly later. I will be in wig, boas, Diane Von Ferstenberg 60’s hippie dress, round glasses and “Janis” voice. This three minute dada happening will be fun. I’ve hounded Denise, Yelli, Florent, Caeser, etal., about this when visiting from Boston on several occasions…781-438-5504 or 617 983-1183 cell that day. Hope you will finally let “Janis” bring this vibe to you…love…marianne ( pics and more…

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  15. Joe says

    favorite florent moment…stopped in one early morning after the roxy and just happened to sit next to a guy who 20 years earlier I picked up while grocery shopping…he invited me to his home which he shared with his grandparents, we messed around until his grandmother walked in…I never forgot his face…or Hers!…
    good times!

  16. Joe says

    I forgot to mention…I won 40 pounds of shitake mushrooms that year at Bastille Day

  17. Jane Barnes says

    I found out that the Florent had an online literary magazine. I had already been to the cafe — my best buddy always celebrated his birthday there. I write lots of poems about food, so I sent in a bunch of them, like raspberries, strawberries potatoes etc. and the editor took about 5 of them. They were nicely designed in the online site and I was so happy to be there. Florent gave me I think $150 credit there, which was a nice payment. You hardly ever get paid for poetry… I loved the place (I’m a diner nut) and the food. At the time I went to recovery meetings a few steps away, and between then in 1998 and forward I watched the meetpacking district unfold. But Florent was the first, when garbage and puddles and rusty buildings abounded. The first person to do a thing has what Lorent has, which is the vision to see what has yet to be tried.

    Any time he wants more food poems, I have some more! Jane Barnes, poet and fiction writer.

  18. David Jarretrt says

    This is by far the best article that I have seen in Towerload in well over a year. Personally, I am not at all interested in your articles featuring divas and singers. Nothing to do with GAY life, for me at least.