02/28/2007
New York Times Restaurant Critic Frank Bruni Comes Out?
New York Times chief restaurant critic Frank Bruni's review of Robert's Steakhouse at the Penthouse Executive Club, which offers female strippers in addition to what Bruni says are some fine steaks, reveals something about Bruni many have suspected and speculated about, but according to some food bloggers has never been listed on the menu until now.
Bruni's review is peppered with passages like this which describes his entrance with three apparently like-minded friends:
"We were strangers to such pulchritudinous territory, less susceptible to the scenery than other men might be, more aroused by the side dishes than the sideshow: underdressed, overexposed young women in the vestibule, by the coat check, at the top of the red-carpeted stairs up to the restaurant, on the stage that many of the restaurant’s tables overlook."
And if there was any interest in strip, it was of the steak variety:
"She said she was running low on cabernet. I took the cue and asked if I could buy her a fresh glass. 'Yes,' she said. 'And you can pour it on my toes.' Didn’t happen. And when one of her sorority sisters sidled up to us to pose a question not commonly uttered in fine-dining establishments — 'Is there anyone I can get naked for?' — the response was silence. On this visit to Robert’s and on subsequent ones, I was derelict in my duty, failing to sample much of what the restaurant had to offer."
And Bruni's end note:
"With a job like this one the learning curve is endless, and it takes you in directions you never expected to go."
Bruni is currently in a major feud with restaurant mogul Jeffrey Chodorow after Bruni gave his Kobe Steak House a "zero star" review. Chodorow took out a full page ad in the Times slamming Bruni. Wonder how Chodorow will feel once he sees that a steakhouse in a strip club beat his meat by one star.
Where Only the Salad Is Properly Dressed [nyt]
Sphere: Related ContentPosted 9:10 AM EST by Andy in Food & Drink, Frank Bruni, I'm Gay, New York, News | Permalink
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I prefer beef to the cheesecake as well.
Posted by: mark m | Feb 28, 2007 9:42:54 AM
When I lived in Tampa Bay, you could not go a block without passing a strip joint "...and lunch buffet!", so I chuckled at this report. My co-workers (knowing I was gay) would still invite me along on a lunchtime outing. The buffet was barely paletable; presumably rare roast beef, assorted sides served in an cigarette-ladened (1990's) cavern of darkness where the underlying stench of pacholli and massage oil maksed what ever smell waifed from the fetted cut of meat. Nothing to write home about. I would site humbly in the back and attempt to nausiouly nosh while my office mates would oogle and whoop over what ever female form was shaking their tails up on stage, all the time avoiding eye contact. My response of "I'm only here for the buffet" did bring knowing laughter from the entertainment staff.
Of course, the tables were reversed when we would go over to Clearwater Beach for a long lunch at beach side and I would offer up similar commentary about what ever male physique was on scantily clad display. The food was MUCH better, served in broad day light.
Posted by: Rad | Feb 28, 2007 9:49:33 AM
Have you read the whole New York Times article, along with the accompanying Slide Show? That Frank Bruni is one funny dude. (I mean funny, ha-ha.)
Posted by: PC | Feb 28, 2007 9:53:35 AM
Wait, not to mention the sly Diana Ross moment he shared with Mahogany? That was tip-off for me.
Posted by: MattGaymon | Feb 28, 2007 10:24:39 AM
For me, it was all the puns and coyness and Wilde-style world-weariness of the "Oh dear, my steak has the best skirt in the room" variety. Maybe he should cut to the chase and slide on over to the theatre section.
Still, I'd totally do him.
Posted by: richard | Feb 28, 2007 10:42:06 AM
Oh dear, I must be slow cause I'm not getting this story at all..
But I was thinking a restaurant with naked, gyrating bodies would be a bit nauseating to be at from a hygiene standpoint. I don't like the idea of suspicious juices mixing with my food.
Posted by: Da | Feb 28, 2007 10:51:27 AM
I love franks writing.. and when he is able to quote mahagonay its all over.Come on how many str8 guys know that... That has to be one the best reviews I have read in a long time. Besides I love the fact Chodorow is all pissed off he has to take a fullpage add to blast him..
Posted by: clay | Feb 28, 2007 11:38:31 AM
I didn't know he was in the closet. But, yes, the review is awesome.
Posted by: ted | Feb 28, 2007 11:43:42 AM
"She didn’t miss a beat, noting the reference, summoning the singer, and moving on to another of the dreamgirl’s hits. “I’m ... coming ... out!” she sang, waving her arms, wiggling her hips. Mahogany and I would get along just fine."
Oh Frank dahling, Come on OUT already!
Posted by: just sayin' | Feb 28, 2007 12:38:10 PM
From the clip above you'd think he was just protecting his "elite" reputation, but I haven't read the whole thing.
Posted by: anon | Feb 28, 2007 1:52:43 PM
i think bruni's totally out. it's not a secret. he's mentioned this before in previous reviews and articles.
Posted by: iamjms | Feb 28, 2007 2:41:00 PM
He's cute and a great writer.
Posted by: Jack! | Feb 28, 2007 3:21:05 PM
It's a great article, and written in the sly, wink-wink sort of code that the late, great Paul Lynde used from the "center square."
And I agree with Richard: I'd totally do him. He's cute, funny and has an expense account.
Posted by: Geoff | Feb 28, 2007 3:34:45 PM
Didn't he used to date Choire Sischa over at Gawker, Andy?
Posted by: Brian | Feb 28, 2007 4:04:18 PM
He's not in the closet... it just hasn't come up in print. He's a journalist, not a memoirist. Why would he need to to discuss his sexuality in a restaurant review?
Posted by: Toby | Feb 28, 2007 6:39:51 PM
If this is the same Frank Bruni who wrote for the Detroit Free Press several years ago, he has been out for a long time. He wrote several gay-themed articles for the Free Press and he was quite open with the fact he is gay.
Posted by: Mike | Feb 28, 2007 11:28:05 PM
I couldn't care less whether Frank Bruni is straight or gay--but I read his reviews for his opinions on the food and I'd hope that if his reviews are good I'd like to take my family for dinner to check it out.A review on a place like Robert's should in my opinion not be featured in the New York Times---I know the term politically incorrect is overused these days,but this is an example where it is justified.
Posted by: laurence | Mar 1, 2007 3:36:58 PM
Regardless of Bruni's sexual orientation, (and really, who gives a damn, anymore? I read his reviews, read his blog, would read his books if he had any, etc. etc.) this restaurant needed to be reviewed on Adam Perry Lang's (Executive Chef) merits alone. Lang worked at Le Cirque and Daniel prior to Robert's and insisted upon installing an onsite aging room for his steak. From what I remember, this chef is the ne plus ultra of aging prime. He is also the owner/chef of Daisy May's BBQ USA a few doors down so the man worships all things meat. Bruni would have been remiss in his capacity as a reviewer not to have taken a look.
Read the New York Times article,'Steak and Shake' Takes On A Whole New Meaning By ALEX WITCHEL Published: November 26, 2003 for the backstory. PLUS: Did you see how subdued Chodorow's reaction was to Lang? Dude is not going to alienate a Chef that he might want to tap in the future.
Posted by: Trish | Mar 1, 2007 8:00:01 PM